Snow and Avalanche Safety Training Day/Journée Securité Neige and Avalanche

There has been the first snowfall this winter in the Pyrenees this week and soon the winter season proper will be here. I find this training day is always a good preparation for the coming season. A great way to be reminded about the dangers of winter snowshoeing and have knowledge and skills already aquired, reinforced and refreshed. 

Pyrenees Mountain Adventures will of course be running a full snowshoeing programme this 2013/2014 winter.

Pic Fourcat Snowshoe

Pic Fourcat (1929m) snowshoe from the Col de Marmare (1361m) near Ax les Thermes. The snow was firm enough to walk on without snowshoes for most of the short circuit (9km).

Franck and Cécile on the descent

 Thanks to Franck and Cécile for the excellent company. Best views were on the descent looking towards Pic Tarbésou

Looking towards Pic Tarbésou (far left)

Top Ten Reasons To Snowshoe

Snowshoes help a person to walk when there is snow on the ground. Snowshoes work by distributing the weight of the person over a larger area so that the person's foot does not sink completely into the snow. 

Perhaps the first people to develop snowshoes looked to nature for inspiration. Several animals, most notably the Snowshoe Hare and the Ptarmigan, have oversized feet enabling them to move more quickly through deep snow.

Walking with snowshoes is not a new idea. In 1991 the frozen body of Otzi the Iceman was found on the Austrian Italian border at 3,210m/10,531 feet. He lived 5,300 years ago and recent analysis suggests that what was previously thought to be part of a backpack, is in fact a snowshoe. The first Europeans to explore North America in the 17th Century found that the Native Americans that lived there wore snowshoes when there was snow on the ground.

The Snowshoe Dance, performed at the first snowfall by the Ojibwa. By George Catlin 1835.

Snowshoes became essential tools for fur traders, trappers and anyone whose life or living depended on the ability to get around in areas of deep and frequent snowfall. Since the 1980's there has been a large growth in the use of snowshoes for recreation.

What's all the fuss about? Here are my Top 10 Reasons to Snowshoe:

1. It's Easy.  The learning curve for skiing and snow boarding is much longer. Anyone who can walk can snowshoe. It is as simple as that. From day 1 you can be enjoying moving about on snow and travelling to your favourite spot to see it in its winter coat.

2. It's Cheap. Compared to skiing and snowboarding, snowshoeing is cheaper. The snowshoes are less expensive than skis or a snowboard and with snowshoes you do not have to pay for a ski pass or uplifts.

3. It's Calm and Peaceful. Snowshoeing means you can escape the noise and bustle of the ski resorts. You will be able to enjoy the mountain environment far away from the noisy crowds. Able to hear only natural sounds - the wind in the pine trees, a babbling brook, the call of a bird of prey overhead, the croak of a Ptarmigan. Sometimes, there is no sound -  total silence. The serenity and tranquility will help even the most highly stressed person to relax and unwind.

4. It's Safe. You will snowshoe at a much slower pace than you ski so the chance of collision damage (whether with the ground or another person) is much smaller than on a ski slope. Having said this, if you are without winter experience, it is best to stay on the resort prepared snowshoeing pistes. If you are looking for more of an adventure, hire a mountain professional like an International Mountain Leader to look after you. They will bring the mountain environment alive and show you places you wouldn't find yourself.

5. It's Healthy.  Snowshoeing offers low-impact, aerobic exercise and is a great way to burn calories during the winter and stay healthy.

6. It's Better for Seeing Wildlife. It is much more difficult to identify wildlife or their tracks, while hurtling down a ski slope. Slowing the pace of travel down with snowshoes means you have more time to pay attention to what is around you. What's more, the busy ski resorts will scare wildlife away. Snowshoeing away from the prepared pistes will increase your chances of seeing actual wildlife and the tracks they have made.

Isard (Pyrenean Chamois)

Animal tracks like these left by a squirrel are easy to spot in the snow.

7. It's fun.  Moving at a slower pace than a skier or snowboarder you have time to play in the snow and interact with the people you are with. Making fresh tracks in new powder and the sound of your snowshoes on the snow is great. Feeling the need for speed? It's easy to set up a polybag snow run.

8. It's Gentler on the Environment. You can enjoy the winter lanscape without the need for a ski resort and its prepared pistes, snow canons and uplifts.

9. It's Better for Photographs. Ever tried taking sharp photos of the fantastic mountain scenery as you ski down a hill?

10. It's Great To Help Live the Dream. If you have ever imagined yourself as a trapper like Geremiah Johnson  or The Last Trapper - snowshoeing is a must!

Pyrenees Mountain Adventure offers guided snowshoeing adventures from day walks, through 2 day walks with a night in a staffed mountain refuge to a week long, lodge based holiday.

There Is No Such Thing As Bad Weather

John Ruskin once said “Sunshine is delicious, rain is refreshing, wind braces us up, snow is exhilarating; there is really no such thing as bad weather, only different kinds of good weather.”

The first time I visited the summit of the Pic de la Coum D'Or in winter it was grey and overcast. The peaks in Andorra were covered in cloud and the route I had taken partly obscured. I was not even able to make out the Lanoux resevoir at the foot of the summit - the largest expanse of water in the French Pyrenees. The time on the summit however was almost windless and remarkably peaceful.

Summit view from Pic de la Coum d'Or looking towards Andorra

 On a recent revisit this winter, I had  blue sky and sunshine and the views  were clear.

My snowshoe tracks towards the Pic de la Coum d'Or

The partially frozen Lanoux resevoir and the dam were visible this time and in the distance Pic Carlit - the highest peak in the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park. This is a favourite mountain area of mine and the area where I prefer to lead  Pyrenees Mountain Adventure walks and treks.

Partially frozen Lanoux Resevoir and in the distance Pic Carlit

However the  wind was much stronger and the summit less of a pleasant experience, the windchill  hastening my descent.

The cold made me think of the herd of 8 or so Isard I had seen on my ascent. I had chosen to approach the peak not by the normal valley route, which I had done before, but via the ridge above the valley. This required more effort but I was able to escape from the normal approach and well trodden path and into a wilder, less visited area and that is where the wildlife can be found. 

The Isard were seen from this spot but out of shot to the right and below me.

It is always exhilarating to see the larger Pyrenean wildlife up close(r) but in winter especially, there is the always the concern that in disturbing the animals I am putting them at risk. Food is much scarcer in the winter and the animals rely on fat reserves built up over the summer to survive. Disturbing them and making them flee, while impressive to watch in terms of their speed, agility, strength and stamina, expends valuable energy which they do not have a great surplus of and therefore makes them more vulnerable to the harshness of the winter. 

3 Countries In One Day

Spent the day snowshoeing in the Campcardos Valley recently. This valley is at the Western boundary of the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park - a beautiful part of the Eastern Pyrenees where Pyrenees Mountain Adventure mainly operates.

The Pyrenees run along the border between France and Spain but also  Andorra. In two places the borders of the 3 countries meet at a single point. One of the points is the Pic de Médécourbe and the other is at the head of the Campcardos Valley at the Porteille Blanche/Portella Blanc (White Col).

The walk starts  near to the  village of Porta which was at one time heavily reliant on smuggling. This is no surprise given it's closeness to Andorra and the ease of access provided by the Campcardos Valley. It was mainly tobacco that was smuggled out of Andorra but also other contraband. Smugglers being pursued found it easier to escape being caught because of the border junction. Depending on which country the chasing police were from, the smugglers had a choice of two countries in close proximity to escape into.

The head of the Campcardos Valley

Walking along the valley,  one side is in shade (ubac) and is covered with trees - the biggest and highest silver birch forest in the Pyrenees-Orientales. The other side is exposed to the sun (soulane or adret) and is much more open. The large number of dry stone walls that form enclosures, the terracing to provide areas of flat land and the stone shelters with turf roofs (orris) all indicate that  the valley has been used as summer pasture for animals for centuries.

When I reached the col (where the border marker number 427 was buried under the snow) it was easy for me to step briefly into each of the 3 countries.

Walking along the border between Andorra (left) and France (right)

The HRP (Haute Route Pyrenean), the high level long distance footpath that crosses the whole Pyrenees from (Atlantic) Ocean to (Mediterranean) Sea, passes over the col.

The GR107 (GR = Grande Randonnée) is another long distance footpath that also passes over the col. This is the Cathar Way. The Cathars were members of a Christian breakaway religion  popular in the 12th and 13th centuries. The Catholic Church treated the Cathars as heritics, persecuting them and burning many at the stake. The persecuted Cathars were able to lead a more peaceful existence in Spain where many of them escaped, passing from France to Spain along  the Campcardos Valley and others like them in the eastern Pyrenees.

The Cathar Way is a 220-kilometre-long route from the French medieval town of Foix over the Pyrenees  to Berga in Spain and is broken down into 12 days.

Unusual cloud formation over Pic Campcardos

Walking up and down the valley there were good views towards the second highest peak in the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park - Pic Campcardos (2905m) I could see the route to it from the valley although in winter with snowshoes and the icy conditions it might be easier to approach it from Spain. A pyrenees mountain adventure for another day!

Green Ski Resorts

If you are planning to ski this winter and want help choosing a greener ski resort, there are several helpful sources of information available.

  

British Ski Club Guide to Greener Resorts

 Mountain Riders Eco Guide to Mountain Resorts

 

Still want to enjoy the mountains in winter but not happy with the environmental impact of the skiing industry? Try a snow shoeing holiday! As well as making less of an impact than skiing, snowshoeing is cheaper and easier. Snowshoeing away from the resorts and prepared runs is also less crowded and more peaceful. See a different side to the mountains in winter. Come and join a Pyrenees Mountain Adventure snowshoeing week and make your own fresh  tracks in the snow. 

 

 

 

Winter Survival

Isard (Pyrenean Chamois)

The animals that live in the high mountains, like the Isard, have a hard time during the winter. As well as the freezing temperatures, snow, strong winds and avalanches, the animals have to contend with food being scarcer and harder to find. A tough life! The animals build up fat reserves during the summer to help them make it through the harsh winter months but not all make it.

A film from Salamandre Films called 'Survive' looks at the dangers the mountain animals face during the harsh winter months. The footage was shot in the Alps but the story the film tells could be applied to any mountain region in winter.

The trailer for the film is here.

Althoug the film was shot in the Alps, all the animals in the trailer can also be seen in the Pyrenees - except for the Ibex (the animal with the very long horns) which became extinct in the Pyrenees in the late 1990's. No Ibex here unfortunately but there is the brown bear which cannot be found in the Alps. Not much chance of seing all these animals on the prepared ski resort slopes however. You have a much better chance with a Pyrenees Mountain Adventure snowshoeing week.

Snow Hare Tracks

Actual sightings of animals are rare but you will be able to see that you are surrounded by  wildlife  from the huge number of prints and tracks in the snow. During a Pyrenees Mountain Adventure snowshoeing week your guide can help you to start to identify which prints and tracks are made by which animal.

Sun, Snow And Snowshoeing

It has arrived - snow! Not in huge quantities but there was enough of it in the Eastern Pyrenees near Aston in the Ariege to spend a weekend snowshoeing.

The first day was spent ascending the Seignac Valley towards the Col du Sal. Snowshoes were necessary above 2000m.

Snowshoeing Towards the Col du Sal.

 At the Col du Sal (2480m) there were impressive views across to the Pic de Thoumasset (2741m).

Pic de Thoumasset from the Col du Sal.

The return was made by the Soulanet Valley and the Sabine Valley.

The next day was an ascent of the Pic de la Sabine.

Making Fresh Tracks Descending From Pic de la Sabine

On the descent from the Pic de la Sabine, the group were able to look across towards the previous days highpoint - the Col du Sal. An impressive cloud bank was stopped on the French/Andorran border.

Cloud bank on the French/Andorran Border.

Despite the winter landscape, colour was still evident below the snowline. There were the browns and golds  of the leaves of the deciduous trees but also the purple of the many crocuses in flower.

Autumn Crocus

Most colourful was the bright red of a fly agaric.The mushroom is poisonous but deaths are rare. In the Middle Ages it was apparently used as a fly killer when sprinkled in milk.

Fly Agaric.

Most surprising was the high number of Pyrenean Gentian to be found. They are normally in flower in July and August!

Pyrenean Gentian

On both days the group had the mountains to themselves - we saw no one. The second day we briefly shared our patch of mountain territory with a herd of isard. Snowshoes do not require prepared pistes or ski resort  uplifts. Quiter, hidden coners of the winter mountain environment can be discovered far from the hustle and bustle of the ski resorts.

2 of the group had never snowshoed before but did not take them long to get used to the snowshoes. If you are thinking of a Pyrenees Mountain Adventure snowshoe week and are worried because you have never snowshoed - don't be! Remember, if you can walk, you can snowshoe!

Pyrenees Mountain Adventure runs a 7 night Winter Snowshoeing Week  with trips scheduled to run in January, February and March 2012.

Frozen Lakes and Conifer Forests

On a recent 2 days spent walking near Lake Bouillouse, the sunny weather for which the Eastern Pyrenees is famous was nowhere to be seen. Snow flurries, gusting winds and biting cold only relented by the afternoon of the second day.

One of the Many Frozen Lakes in the Area

Still, the weather conditions gave the area an Arctic look at times which I enjoyed.

Conditions Gave the Area  an Arctic Feel

I also enjoyed the wind sculpted snow.

Sastrugi - wind sculpted snow

Unfortunately, there were no views from the summit of Tossal Colomer that had been cleared of most of its snow by the wind. I was not able to look across to the Pic Carlit, the highest peak in the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park and first climbed by the famous Count Henry Russel. Neither was I able to look down on the myriad of lakes for which this particular area of the Park is famous.

Happily, the weather brightened for the descent and I was able to see more of the delightful valley along which I made my approach.

Looking Back at the Final Col Before the Summit (Hidden on the Right)

With the weather hot and sunny for the return to the Bouillouse Dam, I was able to look back at my  snow shoe tracks in the fresh powder snow and in the distance Tossal Colomer

Fresh Tracks and in the Distance Tossal Colomer

Roc Del Boc

Pyrenees Mountain Adventure uses an eco - friendly trailside lodge as a base for its 7 night summer walking holiday. The lodge is in Planès, a small hamlet not far from Mont - Louis in the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park at the base of the Planès Valley.

The Roc del Boc (2774m) is one of several peaks that tower above the Planès Valley. It was hot work as the track climbed steeply up from Planès and I  was pleased with the overcast weather at the start of the day, and the cooler temperatures. The cloud cover remained low all day although the sun did periodically break through. The first time was as I came out of the forest onto the broad ridge which led to the first peak, Pic de l'Orri (2561m), which made me feel great.

The Pic de l'Orri

The snow cover that there was gave the mountain animals away - their tracks clearly visible.

Squirrel Tracks

As well as the tracks, there was other evidence of the mountain animals - their droppings! 

Capercaillie Droppings

I saw a  Capercaillie break cover noisily from a Mountain Pine. The Gaillic origins of the bird's name mean 'horse of the woods'.

Beyond the Pic de l'Orri the ridge narrowed, becoming a Crib Goch like 'knife edge' with steep drops to each side. It was exhilarating scrambling along towards the Roc del Boc hidden in the cloud further on.

The Roc del Boc hidden in cloud.

There were great views back along the ridge.

The view back towards the Pic de l'Orri

Far below me in the Planès valley and I could see the frozen Planès Valley pond. Across the Valley, the Cambre d'Ase in its winter coat.

A vigorous five-mile walk will do more good for an unhappy but otherwise healthy adult than all the medicine and psychology in the world.- Paul Dudley White

Petit Peric

With the very hot and sunny weather the day of this walk, it was hard to believe it was January. Snow cover was what the avalanche forecast calls 'intermittent', but it was there in sufficient quantities to be able to snowshoe for some of the time.

View of the Petit Peric from the Camporells Refuge

The view from in front of the Camporells Refuge is one of my favourites. I sat in the sun for a long time enjoying the silence and view across the frozen lake towards the smaller of the twin Peric peaks.

Later in the day, I enjoyed a late lunch on the summit of the Petit Peric.

View from the Petit Peric summmit

“Being in nature, we are balanced, made well, reconnected with the Primordial” - Andreas Cohr

Soulcem Valley

The Soulcem Valley, in the Ariege, is an impressive 'U' shaped valley carved by a glacier during the last ice age 10,000 years ago. The flat, fertile valley floor has been the high, summer pasture for sheep, cattle and Merens horses for centuries.

 The yearly movement of animals to the higher, richer pasture in summer, is called 'la transhumance' in French. The term derives from the Latin trans 'across' and humus 'ground'. Although less important now than in the past with the decline of agriculture, there are farmers who still move their animals to the higher Soulcem Valley each June, the animals staying until October .

The large number (15 or so) of dry stone shelters with a turf roof, or orris, is evidence of the importance of the valley as summer pasture in the past.

It is in these very simple shelters that the shepherds would have stayed, amongst the animals, to watch over them. The Orris de Carla, just above the lake created by the Soulcem dam, were used as recently as 1968. Two modern shelters have been built for the use of the shepherds now.

My last visit to the valley was at the height of summer and it was crowded with people. This time there was no one and I had the whole valley to myself. I made my way up the valley on one side of the river, ascended to the Médécourbe Lake and then returned the other side of the river.

High above the lake is the Pic Médécourbe which is unusual in that it is where the borders of  France, Spain and Andorra meet. On the summit it would be possible to hop in and out of the three countries. Today the summit  was out of the question with the snow cover. An idea for next summer!