Friday, March 25, 2011

Going Underground


The Summer Walking Holiday that Pyrenees Mountain Adventure offers includes a free day when there is no guided walk planned and clients can choose how they wish to spend their time. Something out of the ordinary is a trip underground caving. Inside the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park there is the Fontrabiouse cave system which can be visited. 

For those who like their cave tours a little more adventurous and athletic, there is the Aguzou Caves just outside the Park boundary.


This is less touristy than Fontrabiouse with the cave system in a much more original state. No artificial lighting has been installed. Numbers are strictly limited to preserve the fragile eco system. Group size is small and the tour takes the form of a 1.5km/1 mile underground hike.


You will need to wear the caving overalls and head torch that are provided and if you choose the full day tour, a climbing harness as well. The tour leader who will look after you is the very knowledgeable and enthusiastic Philippe.
  
The different parts of the cave system are aptly named: Hall of Flowers; Room of Chaos; Room of a Thousand and One Nights; Room of the Queens Crown. 

As well as an impressive display of stalactites and stalagmites,


of which there are some enormous examples,

The Minaret is 6m/25ft high

there are also some smaller, finer treasures.

Calcite Triangle

Bat Skeleton

Coral Aragonite











 

Monday, March 21, 2011

Top 10 Mountain Books

1. Into The Wild. Jon Krakauer (1998)
Chris MacCandless grew up in a wealthy family and was gifted intellectually and athletically. He graduated from Emory University with Honours in 1990 and had plans to attend Harvard Law School. Soon afterwards however, he gave 24,000 dollars  that he had saved to Oxfam and went ‘walkabout’, severing all contact with his family and friends, creating a new life for himself tramping around the US. In April 1992 he hitchhiked to Alaska and walked alone into the wild. Four months later his decomposed body was found by a hunter.
‘The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlesssly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun’




2. Touching The Void. Joe Simpson (1988)
 A remarkable survival story. Having made a successful first ascent in Peru with Simon Yates, Joe Simpson falls on the descent and breaks his leg. He eventually ends up falling into a crevasse and Simon believes he is dead. Joe, alone, manages to get out the crevasse and crawl back to camp. 
 ‘Cold had long since won its battle. I accepted that I was to die. Sleep beckoned insistently; a black hole calling me, pain free…..’







3. The Man Who Married a Mountain. Rosemary Bailey (2005)
Rosemary Bailey takes a journey through the Pyrenees. In the process we learn more about this beautiful region and the lives of some of the colourful characters who explored and popularised the area in the nineteenth century. Foremost among them is Count Henry Russel who had an astonishing relationsip with the highest peak on the French side of the chain – the Vignemale.
 ‘Of all those that sought the Sublime and the Beautiful in the Pyrenees, it was Henry Russel who found it.’







4. Climbing High. Lene Gammelgard. (1999)
A woman's account of surviving the killer storm that swept across Everest without warning in the spring of 1996 from someone who was there. Gammelgard made the summit on May 10 but 12 of those on Everest that day would later die – the worst single season death toll on the peak. Many were part of commercial expeditions who had paid large sums of money to be guided to the highest point on earth.
 ‘What I want to share is not the death and tragedy of climbing, but the majestic beauty of the high mountains and the incredible experience of pursuing the challenge of Everest....... I want to share my love for the mountains, for the wilderness where I feel at home.’










5. The Wild Places. Robert Macfarlane (2007)
Robert Macfarlane sets out on a journey around the British Isles, experiencing many different landscapes (e.g. moor, forest, mountaintop,valley, ridge, beach, marsh) in many different ways (e.g. tree climbing, lake swimming, night walking, sleeping on a frozen lake) to discover if any real wild places remain.
 ‘The losses to the wild places of Britain and Ireland were unignorable, and the threats they faced – pollution, climate change – appeared greater in number and vigour than ever before. But I knew that wildness had not wholly vanished.’






6. Mountains of the Mind : A History of a Fascination. Robert Macfarlane (2003)
Over the last 300 years or so there has been a reversal in attitude towards mountains. No longer are they feared, cursed and avoided at all costs. Mountains now attract us with their beauty and the opportunity they offer to enable us to reconnect with nature. For many, mountains have become a neccessity. Macfarlane looks back at the changed relationship between man and mountains.









7. Son of the Wilderness. Linnie Marsh Wolfe (1945)
This is the Pulitzer Prize-winning biography of John Muir. After a harsh childhood in Scotland he become a leading, influential crusader for conservation in the US – a wilderness prophet.
 ‘John Muir came down from the mountains that fall of 1875 with the firm resolve to make all the wilderness better known and loved, that it might be cherished by future generations’








8. Backpacks, Boots and Baguettes. Simon Calder and Mick Webb 2004
A humerous, informative account of completing the GR10 Traverse across the Pyrenees from Atalantic to Mediterranean.
 ‘..if there is one thing more exciting than finding your path it has to be the joy of making your own one’









9. I Bought A Mountain. Thomas Firbank (1940)
A 21 year old Canadian, fresh from two years working in a factory, who cannot speak Welsh and has never farmed, decides to buy a Welsh hill farm in the shadow of Snowdon. Against all odds, Thomas Firbank and his wife Esme, succeed. This is their story.
 ‘The rain was a balm, the wind a caress, the wild Welsh mountains a purge. I think I had decided to buy (the farm) even before the bonnet (of the car) was blown away’









10. The Spirit of Adventure. Colin Mortlock (2009)
Colin Mortlock has already written two books (‘The Adventure Alternative 1984 and ‘Beyond Adventure 2001) reflecting on what it means to be a good person and how adventurous, solo journeys in wild places can help us to discover ourselves and develop the necessary virtues to be better members of the human race.  This third book was started soon after his beloved wife Annette died and finds Colin Mortlock, in old age, again reflecting back on his life journey,  trying to pass on the wisdom he has gained from his experiences teaching outdoor education and adventuring. A thought provoking, inspiring work, as were his other books.
‘Wild nature holds crucial answers as to how to live our lives’

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Frozen Lakes and Conifer Forests

On a recent 2 days spent walking near Lake Bouillouse, the sunny weather for which the Eastern Pyrenees is famous was nowhere to be seen. Snow flurries, gusting winds and biting cold only relented by the afternoon of the second day.

One of the Many Frozen Lakes in the Area


Still, the weather conditions gave the area an Arctic look at times which I enjoyed.

Conditions Gave the Area  an Arctic Feel


I also enjoyed the wind sculpted snow.

Sastrugi - wind sculpted snow


Unfortunately, there were no views from the summit of Tossal Colomer that had been cleared of most of its snow by the wind. I was not able to look across to the Pic Carlit, the highest peak in the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park and first climbed by the famous Count Henry Russel. Neither was I able to look down on the myriad of lakes for which this particular area of the Park is famous.

Happily, the weather brightened for the descent and I was able to see more of the delightful valley along which I made my approach.

Looking Back at the Final Col Before the Summit (Hidden on the Right)

With the weather hot and sunny for the return to the Bouillouse Dam, I was able to look back at my  snow shoe tracks in the fresh powder snow and in the distance Tossal Colomer

Fresh Tracks and in the Distance Tossal Colomer

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

The Hunter and the Hexagon

February is a good time to be star gazing because there are many interesting constellations to see. Looking south around 9 P.M. the constellation of Orion (The Hunter) is easy to spot.

The Constellation of Orion

This is my favourite constellation. Unlike many constellations, it really does look like its title. A hunter with raised club, a shield and a belt from which hangs a sword. Orion can be used to help spot the Winter Hexagon. This is an imaginary hexagon formed by 6 of the brightest stars in the Night Sky.

Star 1: Rigel from Orion (The Hunter.)
Star 2: Alderbarren from Taurus (The Bull.) This is found by extending a line through the 3 stars that make up Orions Belt upwards. Alderbarren (sometimes called the Bulls Eye) is a reddish star.
Star 3. Sirius from Canis Major (The Large Dog.) This is found by extending a line through the 3 stars that make up Orions Belt downwards. Sirius is the brightest star in the Night Sky.
Star 4. Pollux from Gemini (The Twins.)
Star 5. Procyon from Canis Minor (The Small Dog.)
Star 6. Capella from Auriga (The Charioteer.)

The Winter Hexagon and The Milky Way
Another shape to look out for in the same area of the sky is the Winter Triangle. This is found by joining Betelgeuse (from Orion), Sirius and Procyon.

The Milky Way (Galaxy), which is the galaxy our solar system is part of, runs vertically through the Hexagon.

Who are we? We find that we live on an insignificant planet, of a humdrum star, lost in a galaxy tucked away in some forgotten corner of a universe, in which there are far more galaxies than people.
Carl Sagan

Sunday, January 30, 2011

Roc Del Boc

Pyrenees Mountain Adventure uses an eco - friendly trailside lodge as a base for its 7 night summer walking holiday. The lodge is in Planès, a small hamlet not far from Mont - Louis in the Catalan Pyrenees Regional Nature Park at the base of the Planès Valley.

The Roc del Boc (2774m) is one of several peaks that tower above the Planès Valley. It was hot work as the track climbed steeply up from Planès and I  was pleased with the overcast weather at the start of the day, and the cooler temperatures. The cloud cover remained low all day although the sun did periodically break through. The first time was as I came out of the forest onto the broad ridge which led to the first peak, Pic de l'Orri (2561m), which made me feel great.

The Pic de l'Orri
The snow cover that there was gave the mountain animals away - their tracks clearly visible.

Squirrel Tracks
As well as the tracks, there was other evidence of the mountain animals - their droppings! 

Capercaillie Droppings
I saw a  Capercaillie break cover noisily from a Mountain Pine. The Gaillic origins of the bird's name mean 'horse of the woods'.

Beyond the Pic de l'Orri the ridge narrowed, becoming a Crib Goch like 'knife edge' with steep drops to each side. It was exhilarating scrambling along towards the Roc del Boc hidden in the cloud further on.

The Roc del Boc hidden in cloud.
There were great views back along the ridge.

The view back towards the Pic de l'Orri
Far below me in the Planès valley and I could see the frozen Planès Valley pond. Across the Valley, the Cambre d'Ase in its winter coat.


A vigorous five-mile walk will do more good for an unhappy but otherwise healthy adult than all the medicine and psychology in the world.- Paul Dudley White

Petit Peric

With the very hot and sunny weather the day of this walk, it was hard to believe it was January. Snow cover was what the avalanche forecast calls 'intermittent', but it was there in sufficient quantities to be able to snowshoe for some of the time.

View of the Petit Peric from the Camporells Refuge
The view from in front of the Camporells Refuge is one of my favourites. I sat in the sun for a long time enjoying the silence and view across the frozen lake towards the smaller of the twin Peric peaks.

Later in the day, I enjoyed a late lunch on the summit of the Petit Peric.

View from the Petit Peric summmit
“Being in nature, we are balanced, made well, reconnected with the Primordial” - Andreas Cohr

Friday, January 21, 2011

Holiday Dates 2011

Pyrenees Mountain Adventure has published the dates for the Summer Walking Holidays it will offer in 2011. The dates are:

July 13 – 20
July 27 - August 3                               
August 10 - 17                                     
August 24 - 31                                     
September 28 - October 5


For more information about the holidays and how to book: www.pyreneesmountainadventure.com

Other Dates For Your Diary:

9th January. National Snowshoe Day.
2nd February.  Festival of the Bear, Prats de Mollo.
April 15th – 23rd. Religious Music Festival, Perpignan.
June. Transhumance Festival, Pyrenees wide. Cows, sheep and horses take to the roads and tracks to climb to the high summer pastures.
23rd June Midsummer Day/Feast of St John. Fire lit on the summit of Pic Canigou.
Last Sunday in June. Smugglers walk Osséja.
Penultimate Sunday in July. Sheep dog trails in Osséja.
31st July - 7th August. Vernet Les Bains Festival. Includes the Vernet - Canigou summit - Vernet walk (6th August) and race (7th August). 34km, +4268m height gain.
3rd week in August. Merens Horse Fair, Bouan, Ariege.
15/16th October. Grape Harvest Festival, Banyuls sur Mer.
5th November. Horse Fair, Puigcerda.

“Modern travelling is not travelling at all; it is merely being sent to a place, and very little different from becoming a parcel.” John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)