Good News And Bad News

The bad news is that a bear cub was been found dead in the Eastern Pyrenees (Ariege, Couserens) last month. The body had been partially eaten by vultures (which 'clean' the mountains of dead animals) and this made it difficult to state with certainty the cause of death. Initial inspection of the carcass suggested that it had not been shot as there was no holes in the skin. There are several possible causes of death; an illness, attack by an adult male, poor care from the mother, a bad fracture etc.

On a happier note, at least 2 ( possibly 3) bear cubs born this winter were seen with their mother playing in the snow in the same area of the Pyrenees. The group of bears was watched for over an hour by walkers who were within a 100 metres. Photos were taken by the walkers but they were not conclusive. It wasn't until after a team from the Hunting and Wildlife Commission were able to study the prints, hairs and droppings in the area that the presence of a female and at least 2 cubs was confirmed. Further study will be able to determine the sex of the cubs and their father. He is likely to be Pyros, a male bear introduced from Slovenia in 1997.

The presence of bears in the Pyrenees continues to divide the chain. For the farmers with livestock to protect, 1 more bear is 1 too many. A public meeting was organised 27th July in St Girons (Ariege) by ASPAP. For the pro bear lobby, even if births this winter have helped the total bear population in the Pyrenees to climb towards 25, this is still too few a number to guarantee the survival of the species. More introductions are necessary.

Anti Bear Lobby: Association pour la SAUVEGARDE du PATRIMOINE D’ARIEGE-PYRENEES

Pro Bear Lobby: Pays de l'Ours -  ADET

Cortalets to Marialles Ridge Route

A fantastic day today. Having seen the Concert for the Sunrise I leave the Cortalets Refuge for The Marialles Refuge not by the normal routes but by the ridge route.

I start my descent from the Crete du Barbet and get my first view of Puig Sec and the ridgeline behind which is partly obscured by mist. This quickly clears.

Looking at the Porteille de Valmanya and Puig Sec (2665m) with the Ridge Behind.

Ascent and descent of the Puig Sec brings me nearer to the ridge which can now be clearly seen.

Puig Del Roc Negre (2714m) and Puig Dels Tres Vents (2731m)

I miss Puig Del Roc Negre but reach the summit of the Puig Dels Tres Vents which offers great views back towards Pic Canigou.

Pic Canigou (2784m) and the Gougs (Lakes) de Cady

The next peak is Puig Roja (2742m) and then the Pic Des Sept Hommes (2651m). From this peak I descend down to the plateau Pla Guillem.

Pla Guillem

On the final approach to the Marialles Refuge and a welcome refreshing drink, I discover an old shepherds shelter - dry stone walls and turf roof!

Old Shepherds Shelter

Concert For The Sunrise

It is Sunday morning and 6 a.m. It is dark and despite it being the very end of July, cold. A strong wind is blowing. I am outside the Cortalets Refuge on the slopes of Pic Canigou at 2150m wrapped in my sleeping bag trying to stay warm. There are perhaps 200 other people with me.

Why? Because as part of The Pablo Casals Music Festival 5 musicians are about to play chamber music to welcome the arrival of the Sun King.

They start playing just after 6.20 a.m. and the dark red rising sun can be seen throught the dark clouds at about 6.40 a.m. A magical moment! The scene fits perfectly with the theme of the  2011 festival: Chamber Music Highs.

Michel Lethiec the festival director said: I've always wanted to play a concert on the Canigou mountain. Today his dream became a reality.

Pablo Casals was a Catalan cellist who was exiled from Spain under Franco and settled in Prades making his home in the shadow of Pic Canigou. It was he who started the Predes Music Festival.

All photos from L'Independent newspaper. Source:http://www.lindependant.fr/2011/08/02/p-o-festival-pablo-casals-en-mode-extreme,47625.php

Pic Bugarach

A circular walk to Pic Bugarach starting and finishing in the village and passing the Cascade de Mathieux and La Fenêtre. 

You start on a section of Sentier Cathare/Cathar Way – a 250 km/ mile footpath which winds its way between Port-la-Nouvelle on the Mediterranean Coast and Foix, between a large number of villages and chateaux with strong links to the Cathars. After 2.5km/ 1.5miles from the village, the path passes above the Cascade des Mathieux. The waterfall cannot been seen from the path so look out for the small sign on your left.  A real hidden treasure.

As the path gets steeper, the trees thin and it becomes necessary to use your hands to scramble up the limestone. La fenêtre/ window is a natural opening in the limestone rock which the path passes behind. After more scrambling, the summit comes into view . 

Summit View From Pic Bugarach

Very windy on the summit as is often the case here. My binoculars help identify the large bird of prey as a vulture. There is a 360° panorama. Not a particularly clear day so the views not as spectacular as they can be.

To the north is the Montagne d'Alaric (30°). To the east two cathar castles – Peyrepertuse (88°) and Quéribus (98°) and the sea 60km away. To the south are the Pyrenees closest to the sea with the unmistakable outline of Pic Canigou (170°). To the west more of the Pyrenees with the Pic St Barthelemy (266°) and closer the hill top village of Rennes-le-Château (306°).

While on the summit I thought about  how  according to some, the end of the Mayan calendar on 21^st December 2011 means the end of the world! Except that is for those who are in the vicinity of Bugarach village which will escape the apocolypse apparently. As well as the end of the world, much has been written linking Pic Bugarach to hidden treasure, unidentified flying objects and strange lights etc. It is even said that it inspired Steven Spielberg and his film 'Close Encounters of the Third Kind' although the actual peak in the film is based almost certainly on the Devils Tower in Wyoming.

I found an esoteric geometric pattern carved into the summit rock and later found an identical pattern carved into a large rock close to the descent path.

Esoteric Geometric Pattern Carved Into The Summit Rock

The descent path from the summit soon enters a shady forest of box. Box wood is a hard wood and so heavy it will sink in water ! Lower down beech appear as well offering welcome shade.

'Rams Head'/Beech Roots

Business As Unusual

Three videos from the Patagonia  that ask some important questions that will hopefully get you thinking. As the founder of Patagonia, Yvon Chouinard, says 'Lead an examined life'. Reflection is the key!

What's Done in Our Name? Social Responsibility and the Patagonia Supply Chain

  

21 Apr 2009. Patagonia customers tell us their desire for fair working conditions for the people who build their product; experts at universities and NGOs outline the challenges inherent in global production; and Patagonias social-responsibility and production staff talk about the tightrope walk of doing the right thing yet working in a competitive world. 

What Comes Next? Environmental Responsibility and the Patagonia Supply Chain

 

|2 Oct 2009. Patagonia asks the experts: What are the greatest threats now facing the environment? Is sustainability a real and achievable goal? Can business ever move beyond sustainability - leaving the planet better than we found it? How do we need to change business - and our behavior - to start to substantially lighten our footprint? We get some surprising and contradictory answers.

What Is Quality for Our Time? Responsible Business and the Patagonia Supply Chain

28 May 2010. Can a good product be made in a bad factory? We talk to business people and teachers about a contemporary definition of quality that includes social and environmental responsibility ­ and every process involved in the creation of a product.

Business As Unusual was the title of a book by Anita Roddick a British businesswoman, human rights activist and environmental campaigner. She was best known as the founder of The Body Shop, a cosmetics company producing and retailing beauty products that shaped ethical consumerism.  

Anita Roddick web site.

Freedom Trail Success

The idea originally came from a student at a school in Canterbury in Kent. From relatives who lived in the Pyrenees he discovered that an old WWII escape route from France to Spain had been turned into The Freedom Trail. Was it possible to walk this for his Duke of Edinburgh Gold Expedition over 4 days and 3 nights?

A year ago, after being asked the question, the Duke of Edinburgh coordinator at the school contacted me and the trip began to take shape. During the following year the group had many meetings and spent many hours studying their maps - finalising their route  and their route cards. In September 2011 they spent a week in Snowdonia  to complete their training expedition. Read the blog entry here: Wet and Windy Wales


July 2011, the group arrives at Toulouse Airport and the Qualifying Expedition is about to start.

Bethmale Lake

There is a orientation morning around the Col de la Clore and the Lac de Bethmale. Getting used to packing the ruc sack and carrying it again and a chance to discover what has been left back in England. For one group member it is his waterproofs! The afternoon is spent in the Freedom Trail Museum in St Girons. We have been using a guide book to the Freedom Trail by Scott Goodall and although we miss the author who has just left as we arrive, we are lucky enough to meet one of the real life escapees from the book. Paul Broué escaped into Spain in 1943 along the Freedom Trail when he was 19 to avoid being sent to Nazi Germany as forced labour.

Day 1 starts in St Girons with the camp site at Aunac.

Team Jumpy at the Start Point in St Girons

Day 2 is from Aunac via the Col de la Clore to the Cabane de Subera (a shepherds hut). Both groups set up their tents just before the rain storm arrives.

Blue Team at the Col de la Clore.

Day 3 is from the Cabane de Subera  to the Refuge Estagnous. Poor visibility and light rain for most of today. The Blue Team decide to make up an alternative route from Cabane des Espugues and get themselves into trouble. Remembering their training they walk a compass bearing to the col where I am waiting,  even 'aiming off' to be sure to not miss the col. Textbook stuff! As usual they arrive together showing good team spirit.

Staff Team at Refuge d'Estagnous

Day 4 is from Refuge d'Estagnous to Isil - the day when the frontier between France and Spain is finally crossed.

The Blue Team at the Border with View Back into France

Heading Into Spain and 'Freedom'

Well done to both teams for completing the Freedom Trail and a big thank you to all the staff that helped.

  

Just wanted to say a huge thanks for all of your hard work, the trip really would not have happened without you! It was an amazing expedition and I hope at some point I can come back to the Pyrenees, whether its with a group or on my own. Again,  thank you. 

Lucy, Duke of Edinburgh Coordinator.

These Boots Were Made For Walking

At the beginning of July I helped a group of students from a school in Canterbury, Kent to complete their Gold Duke of Edinbourgh Expedition in the French Pyrenees. They completed the Freedom Trail from Saint Girons in France to Isil in Spain. This follows the route of a Second World War escape line. 

The 4 day, 3 night expedition was hard both on the students and their equipment.

Repaired Boot

One student had to repair his boot with materials to hand from a first aid kit after the sole detached itself completely from the upper.

For more about the expedition read Freedom Trail Success.